Question: PLEASE HELP! I am so lost. TY ! You must write out each step of the calculation. Show the equations you are using at each

PLEASE HELP! I am so lost. TY!
You must write out each step of the calculation. Show the equations you are using at each step and the
result. Don't forget to show the correct units for values shown.
Question 1:
A wave in deepwater has a height H0=2.2m, period T=6.6s and angle relative to the coastline 0=33.
a) Assuming parallel depth contours and taking both shoaling and refraction into account, what is:
i. the water depth at the breakpoint, hb
ii. the wave height at the breakpoint, Hb
iii. the angle of breaking, b.
b) Assume the coast follows a Dean (1991) equilibrium profile, given by: h=Ay23; where h= water
depth, y= cross-shore distance, A= constant =0.21D500.48, and D50= median sediment diameter in
mm. How far is the breakpoint (computed in 1a) from the shoreline if D50 is:
i)0.25mm.
ii)0.55mm.
Tip: Rearrange the equation to make y the subject of the formula.
c) What is the maximum wave orbital velocity, um, at the bed at the breakpoint (z=-hb)? Based on this
value, what is the average long-shore current, VL?
d) What type of sediment transport regime (bedload, suspended load, or both) is taking place at the
bed at the breakpoint using both values of D50 given in 1b, assuming that the mean velocity U is
equal to um computed in 1c? Take s=2650kgm3,=1030kgm3,v=8.2210-7m2s.
PLEASE HELP! I am so lost. TY ! You must write

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