Comprehensive Study of Oceanographic and Coastal Processes and Features

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Earth Science - Oceanography

user_lira_cofre Created by 9 mon ago

Cards in this deck(100)

The highest point of a wave is known as the _____

The lowest point of a wave is called the _____

The distance between two corresponding parts of a wave is known as the _____

The vertical distance between the crest and trough of a wave is called the _____

The time interval between the passage of successive crests at a stationary point is the _____

The movement of water in waves in a nearly circular path is known as the _____

The movement of energy, not mass, in water is demonstrated by a _____

In a deep water wave, orbits extend downwards to L/2. Is wave motion felt below that? _____

In a transitional wave, the lowest orbit feels the bottom making the wave height _____

When the wave is in water of L/20, it becomes so high and unstable that it 'breaks' and is called _____

Conditions leading to rip currents include Wave Conditions, Topography, Tidal Influence, and _____

To escape rip currents, one should swim _____ to the shoreline instead of against the current.

A relatively strong, narrow current flowing outward from the beach through the surf zone is called a _____

Currents parallel to the beach within the surf zone are known as _____

The three main factors that influence wind wave development are Wind Speed, Wind Duration, and _____

The uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without changing direction is called _____

The largest waves with the longest wavelengths that form 'swell' are known as _____

The maximum significant wave height in Hurricane Ivan (2004) was _____ feet.

The average height of the highest one-third of the waves present is known as the _____

When a peak aligns in space and time with another peak, it is called _____

When a peak aligns with a trough, it is known as _____

A large single wave with very high crests and low troughs that comes out very suddenly is called a _____

Tsunamis are caused by a sudden and large-scale water movement usually due to an _____

Why is it difficult to predict and also to see and track Tsunamis? Because wave lengths are long and wave heights are _____

In shallow water, Tsunamis feel the bottom then the wave height increases rapidly to very large heights and _____

How long did the Dec 2004 Tsunami take to hit the first coastline after it formed? _____ minutes.

What tides produce the longest waves in the ocean? _____ tides.

The moon's effect on astronomical tides is about _____ times that of the Sun, due to its nearness to Earth.

Rotation of the Earth under the Moon's 2 tidal bulges produces _____ and _____ tides.

The main tidal cycle on Earth is how long? _____ hours and 50 minutes.

Tidal range is controlled by orientation of the _____ and _____ relative to the Earth.

When the Earth, Moon, and Sun are in alignment, _____ tides occur on Earth.

During spring tides, the tidal range increases and the highest high tides and the lowest low tides are _____

Neap tides have a low tidal range and occur when the Moon, Earth, and Sun are _____

Tides are classified in three main types: semi-diurnal, diurnal, and _____ tide.

A semi-diurnal tide has _____ highs and _____ lows per Lunar day (equal).

A diurnal tide has _____ high and _____ low each Lunar day.

A mixed tide has _____ highs and _____ lows per Lunar day (unequal).

The most common type of tide is the _____ tide.

The diurnal tide is the main tide type in the _____

The semi-diurnal tide is the main tide type in the _____

The mixed tide is the main tide type in the _____

Tidal predictions are based on the astronomical tides and information of basin size, shape, and depth, known as the _____

A depiction of the large-scale rotary motion of the tides in ocean basins and seas is called an _____

Does a well-developed Amphidromic system exist in the Gulf of Mexico? _____

Does a well-developed Amphidromic system exist in the Gulf of St Lawrence, Canada? _____

All systems in the Northern Hemisphere rotate _____

Co-tidal lines show the progression of the wave in a _____ rotation.

The Bay of Fundy is too _____ and _____ for an Amphidromic system to form.

The bay shape and size of _____ result in some of the highest tides in the world!

The period of a seiche is determined by the _____

The Gulf of Mexico's diurnal tide is due to its seiche period corresponding to that _____

Tidal currents are generated by _____ and can get very strong in narrow channels.

A time of no current between rising and falling tides is known as _____

During a rising tide, _____ currents occur. During falling tide, _____ currents occur.

True or False: Organisms that live in the water column or in/on the bottom are impacted by tidal ranges throughout the day and month. _____

_____ tides will likely cause the most stressful conditions for bottom-dwelling animals and plants.

Water levels at the coast are affected by water level fluctuations due both to the _____ and the local wind speed and direction.

Because the Louisiana tides have a very small range, the water level changes due to _____

Louisiana tides range _____ even during spring tides.

Many shorelines and coastal zones are _____

The area where the land meets the ocean is known as the _____

Features such as beaches, sand dunes/sand bars, wetlands, and rocky shores are part of the _____

What factors affect the shape and location of coasts? Sea Level, Storm Winds, Waves, Currents, Tides, and _____

The average sea level at a particular shoreline, averaged over several years, is known as the _____

Eustatic sea level change is caused by the change in the volume of the water in the sea, or by a change in the _____

Variations in sea level that occur at specific locations along coastlines, independent of global or regional trends, are known as _____

At Grand Isle, Relative SLR is 9.85 mm/y, Eustatic SLR is 3.1 mm/yr. Local SLR is _____ mm/yr.

In the Louisiana coastal zone, the main cause of local sea level rise is _____

Which has a higher Relative and Local Sea Level Rise rate, Galveston or _____?

Deposition exceeds erosion on low energy coasts and requires a constant supply of material from _____

Loose particles such as sand, silt, and clay are found in _____ and deltas.

Oolites, corals, and coralline algae are found in _____ banks.

How many deltas built Louisiana over the last 7500 years? _____

Dune, Berm Crest, and Sand Bar are each found where? Dune: _____, Berm Crest: _____, Sand Bar: _____

Dune, Berm Crest, and Sand Bar have what in common? All are features of _____ environments.

Man-made causes of coastal land loss in Louisiana include the Mississippi River Levee and _____

Oil/gas canals increase _____ and erosion.

The Mississippi River Levee restricts over-bank flooding and sediment supply to keep pace with de-watering of delta sediments and _____

Areas of greatest land loss often have a higher _____ density.

Winter cold fronts and tropical cyclones cause erosion of the _____ in Louisiana wetlands every year.

Hurricane waves such as during H. Ivan (2004) have eroded extensive areas of the _____ island chain.

Although some recovery is possible between storms, _____ is essential if these islands are to be maintained as a buffer against future hurricanes.

Barrier island restoration offers the best way of protecting the shoreline behind them from _____

The USACOE uses _____ in an attempt to stabilize the coast.

_____ are often used as coastal engineering structures to stabilize beaches, protect coastal infrastructure, and create recreational areas.

_____ are hard to maintain because wave attack causes erosion which requires a lot of maintenance.

_____ break the energy of the wind waves before they reach the coast, allowing the shoreline to build up with sediments.

Working with _____ is the best way to sustain a coastline.

Effective coastal restoration techniques in use in Louisiana include re-building barrier islands and _____

The area where a freshwater stream or river merges with the ocean is known as an _____

The four types of estuaries are drowned river mouths, fjords, bar-built, and _____

The Mississippi River circulation type is _____

The Atchafalaya River circulation type is a _____

Low energy waves deposit sand on the beach during the _____ season in California.

An atoll is a sunken volcano surrounded by living coral reefs and reef debris from storms, primarily composed of _____

True or False: Often one or more islands are created from the dead reef material when vegetated. The land is very low lying and floods easily. _____

Who was the first to describe how atolls form? _____

_____ contribute to shoreline stabilization in the tropics where they grow best.

True or False: Favorable traits are retained because they make the organism successful at survival and reproduction. If the environment changes, other traits become favorable and are selected. _____

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